A Seamstress of Dreams
Fashion designer Felicity Brown doesn’t believe in following trends. Instead, with a dollop of inspiration mixed with bundles of creativity and copious amounts of research into her chosen theme, she creates clothing that is modern with twinges of artistic antiquity, making her designs stand out amongst the latest fashions. Comparing herself to an artist mixing colors on a canvas when playing around with colorful fabrics for her dresses on a mannequin, Brown is the definition of experimentation and carefree zest in the face of an industry that often falls under the spell of cautious planning in an effort to procure the grandest award. But while accolades are certainly of some importance to the London based fashion diva, her vision is what gives her the power to keep creating.
Founded merely two years ago by Brown and her brother Henry, the Felicity Brown label has been receiving international recognition since her debut at London Fashion Week. After seeing her raw, yet sophisticated collection on display at the show, Barneys in New York bought her line, amongst numerous other prestigious retailers, sparking her first achievements in the industry. Currently, she designs her collections twice a year and her creations can be seen and bought in high-end stores across 15 different countries worldwide. Yet, despite her superfluous success, Brown only became a designer by chance.
Though she always enjoyed playing around with fabrics, imagining designs, her original occupation (after graduating from the Royal College of Art with a master’s degree in textiles) revolved around the textile department. It was while working for Alberta Ferretti that her initial goal changed, specifically when Ferretti saw Brown draping fabrics on a mannequin in the form of loose designs with a blatant hesitancy. Encouraging her to “just make something,” the renowned Italian designer gave Brown the much-needed push of confidence necessary to pursue her subconscious dream. Brown continued her fashion education by working for fashion giants like Loewe, Mulberry and Lavin, before creating her own fashion label.
Inspired by artists like Picasso as well as African Tribes, and lately the 1960s, her designs bring a certain type of luminosity with their watermark colors and layered relaxed shapes. But her real muses are her studios, one based in East London, the other in Dubai, where she whimsically interlaces the hectic lifestyle of a city with the more relaxed way of living into her line. One might even go as far as calling her creations romantic due to their dreamlike semblance that can only be described as hazy reflections in the water. Simply put, Brown is a seamstress of dreams, sewing them together with everyday realities.
Although busy creating new concepts and caring for her newest member of the family, a third baby, Brown took a brief break from her duties to give GALO readers a glimpse into her stylish world.
GALO: When did your interest in fashion first develop?
Felicity Brown: I’ve always had an interest in making and creating things. My Granddad also used to make dresses for my Nan, so I think there’s a designer gene that runs in the family.
GALO: Did you ever create clothing items for yourself when you were younger – how about now?
FB: No, I only ever created textile concepts. Even today I very rarely wear my own pieces, I’m so busy being a mum and creating in the studio that I rarely have the occasion to wear my own pieces.
GALO: I read that the highlight of your career was when you made your first dress.
FB: In my entire career, even today, I’ve always created textile concepts. Lanvin would incorporate my concepts in his designs. But now, having my own label, it’s a real challenge because I have to create something from start to finish. I’ve always been part of a process, but now everything is entirely mine.
GALO: Do you feel that your education at the Royal College of Art was beneficial to your career?
FB: The Royal College has an amazing reputation and has fantastic tutors. Through the college I got to have lectures from key industry figures such as Alexander McQueen and Roland Mouret, which were fantastic opportunities.
GALO: While you were working for Alberta Ferretti in the textile department, you sometimes would drape fabrics around the mannequins, playing around with them as if you desired to make something.
FB: At Alberta Ferretti I had this free organic way of working that allowed me to be creative. It was a really good refreshing environment to work in.
GALO: Before you launched your own collection, you worked with some of the most prestigious names in Fashion such as Alberta Ferretti, Mulberry, and Lanvin. What was the one thing that you took away from your time with them and incorporated into your own brand?
FB: Alberta Ferretti gave me that freedom to create and work using a totally organic process. Lanvin gave me the concept of rawness, showing me that when something is unfinished it can be perfectly finished.
GALO: I read that your fall/winter 2011/12 line was inspired by the watery marks of Marlene Dumas’ paintings and Picasso’s ballet illustrations. What particularly drew you to these art pieces and artists in terms of allure and inspiration?
FB: I have a great interest in art. And I’d like to think that if I wasn’t a designer, I could be an artist in some form. I was attracted to their color palette and the depth of their work.
GALO: Speaking of Picasso, in a past interview for Blink London, you mentioned that you wish you could work in his studio or collaborate with another painter. Could you elaborate on why this is something that you would like to do? Is this something you are considering incorporating into a future line?
FB: [As mentioned previously], my other career path would’ve been an artist in another form. Art and fashion are both so creative, but although they have many similarities, they have differences too. I like to think I work in the way of an artist rather than a designer. I mix colors and fabrics on a mannequin like an artist would on a canvas. And artists tell a story through their paintings, and I do it through my dresses.
GALO: Your spring/summer 2012 line was inspired by the culture and dynamics of African tribes. A lot of earth tones such as dusky brown, red, and blue can be seen throughout it. Why did you choose this particular color palette for your designs?
FB: They’re the colors that I found in the Victorian and tribal research that I did for the season.
GALO: What colors do you typically enjoy working with?
FB: It varies from season to season depending on what my inspirations are at the time.
GALO: On average, how long does it take you to construct a piece?
FB: I always work on several pieces at one time, so it’s hard for me to say. The development process takes weeks and the design changes over time.
GALO: Is there a particular material you most enjoy working with?
FB: Silks and tulles; as I take my inspiration from costume pieces, I like working with the fabric you find in these.
GALO: What trends do you see being popular in 2013?
FB: I’m really the wrong person to ask as I’m not a huge fashion follower, I never follow trends. I literally create from what is inspiring me at the time.
GALO: What are you working on presently?
FB: I’ve just recently had my third baby, so I’m still very much in the research phase for the new season with nothing confirmed just yet.
GALO: And what’s in store for the future?
FB: Being true to what I do and continuing in creating special pieces, and to stay away from becoming too commercial. I’d like to continue being a good mum to my children and hopefully have more time to spend on my second passion: gardening.
GALO: You work in two locations – your studio in East London and a hideaway spot in the desert of Dubai. How does working at the two spots differ for you? Do you find that one is more inspirational than the other?
FB: London is bursting with creativity and in Dubai I’m surrounded by the calm desert. I feel like it’s a good mix to have.
GALO: How would you describe your fashion line in three words?
FB: Raw, color, texture.
GALO: You’ve been working alone for almost two years now. How does working for your own brand differ from working for other designers? Do you miss being part of a team?
FB: Yes, there are parts of working in a team that I miss, but then again, you create a team within your own brand. I also like the freedom that I have to create, now that I have my own brand.
GALO: How has your brother, Henry, helped you on this journey?
FB: Henry founded the company and encouraged me to design our products. Today, I focus purely on design, and Henry runs all other aspects of our business.
GALO: You’ve been a part of various fashion shows. How did it feel the first time to see your work on the runway?
FB: Very proud. It really makes it all worth while.
GALO: Do you have a favorite memory from one of the shows?
FB: All shows are special for their own reasons.
GALO: As someone who is fairly new to the industry, do you feel pressured to create unique designs and trends due to the boundaries and criticism that can abound from established designers and fashion critics – do you feel that your designs are subjected to higher expectations?
FB: No, my philosophy is to create and fulfill my vision. I don’t want to be swayed or influenced by outside influences.
GALO: Lastly, what piece of advice do you have for those who are just starting out in the industry?
FB: Stay true to your vision. Don’t run before you can walk. Start small, but powerful, and grow slowly.
