All That Glitters: Platinum Jewelry Designer Philip Press Gives Sparkle to Fashion
GALO: Conversely, is there a piece that was the hardest for you to design?
PP: A few years ago, a CEO of a fairly large company and his wife came to me to design and make a very significant 50-carat diamond necklace for her. While this challenge would normally be a pleasure, she wanted to wear the piece to a wedding in New York that was to take place in less than a month. This created a serious time crunch for our team because we had to design and make this valuable and unique statement necklace so quickly.
In the end, we pulled it off and the piece was exceptional, but we put in quite a few late nights to get it done on time and up to our standards of perfection.
GALO: What jewelry trends do you see being popular later this year and in 2013?
PP: Because we focus on creating heirloom pieces made at the pinnacle of craftsmanship, we tend to stay away from “trends.” We believe in designing timeless classics that reflect distinctiveness and taste, not a trend.
Nevertheless, certain gemstones and metals do become more popular at times, and it is fun for me to incorporate these into my work. For example, I am working on designing more pieces with black and colored diamonds because I love these enduring gemstones. And, as I mentioned, I like infusing pink gold into my collections as well. These all just happen to be hot fashion items that are “on trend” these days, but my designs will be ageless.
GALO: How would you describe your approach?
PP: My approach to design is first and foremost customized. I believe in being user-centered and take the time to understand my clients’ lives and design jewelry that takes into account their lifestyles, but, at the same time, unleashes their imaginations. Often I ask clients to close their eyes and picture the perfect piece of jewelry. This provides me with insight into what they love so I can create an individualized, exquisite heirloom masterpiece especially for them.
When I create a new collection or a custom piece, I always think about the persona of the women (or occasionally men) who will wear the jewelry. The Philip Press client is often highly discriminating in her jewelry tastes, stylish, refined and elegant, while at the same time, she is exceedingly vibrant, original and creative.
I also would describe my approach as use-centered in that I visualize where the jewelry will be worn – whether it is for the red carpet, a professional setting, social events or everyday use. Finally, I always consider what meaning or symbolism is associated with each piece – such as love, commemoration, success, legacy or distinction.
GALO: I imagine your pieces have been in numerous fashion shows. How did it feel the first time to see your work on the runway?
PP: The first time I saw my work on the runway was for a bridal fashion show with wedding gowns by Richard Tyler. I admired Mr. Tyler’s attention to detail and craftsmanship that mirrored my own level of commitment to excellence in both materials and artistry. It felt exhilarating to see the beautiful models in my designs, but it was a real eye-opener for me to see how much work goes into producing a fashion show.
GALO: As someone who’s been in the industry for a long time, do you feel pressured to create unique designs and trends– do you feel that your designs are subjected to higher expectations?
PP: I definitely feel that my designs are subjected to higher expectations, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. We continuously set the bar higher within our own studio to uphold our reputation for the absolute best craftsmanship, elegance, and quality that will always be at the heart of our designs and our brand. Creating unique designs is also a big part of who we are, but I love doing it, so it’s not really pressure.
GALO: Your brand is highly regarded. What do you think sets you apart from other jewelry designers?
PP: Thank you for the compliment. During my many years in the industry, I have focused on setting my brand apart from others in several ways. First and foremost is the utmost craftsmanship and heirloom quality of our pieces. The jewelry industry has changed much during the past few decades, and I’m afraid that a commitment to fine workmanship and gemstones has been replaced by a sea of mass produced pieces of mediocre-to-poor quality and dismal, often poorly functioning or ill-conceived design. We pride ourselves on melding old-world techniques with new-world technology to handcraft the finest pieces. We choose only the finest, rare gemstones for every design.
Our second distinguishing characteristic is the timeless elegance of our designs. While we gather inspiration from both antique and modern elements, we create jewelry that will look just as stylish and sophisticated today as it will in generations to come.
GALO: What’s in store for the future?
PP: Designers these days are trying to gain a greater market for their designs, but are often compelled to deliver a lower-quality product for the mass market. We believe the best model for distributing our designs to more people without compromising our quality is through the Internet. We plan to unveil a new online-only brand, Primo Platinum, in the coming months. Stay tuned for our launch!
GALO: What do you see as the future of platinum jewelry?
PP: Platinum, which has been used in jewelry making for thousands of years, will continue its legacy as the highest quality metal for bridal rings and certain everyday pieces. For many decades to come, platinum jewelry will rule the red carpet and engagement ring market as the rarity and beauty of platinum drive its popularity around the world. I will continue to handcraft many of my bridal, every day and red carpet designs in platinum, and use both platinum and 18-karat gold for my collections.