It’s not unusual these days to hop on a plane in Los Angeles after morning coffee and be in Turkey in time for a tasty shish kebab dinner. It’s all part of living in the western world, right? But the five sisters in...

“Inshallah, we will make it,” said my driver, Abdul. “But first we must stop and take tea.”

The weather had turned warm in Istanbul. It was spring, the season after the one that sends uninviting gusts of wind off all three bodies of water that grip the city like fingers.